Joe's Money

I can’t begin to tell you my frustrations lately with the credit card companies.  I had heard of all these people saying their rates are getting jacked up for now reason.  They all stated they had never been late or missed a payment, never went over their limit, etc.  I figured there was more to it they simply weren’t disclosing.  I was wrong.  It happened to me.

Traditionally, I never carry a balance on credit cards month to month.  About 4 months ago, my credit card company must have realized that in the midst of the declining market and cut my credit limit in half.  I really wasn’t upset that the limit itself was cut, I would probably never use anywhere close to the max.  However, another piece of the credit score puzzle, is the ratio of debt to available balance.  Generally, you don’t want to have a ratio higher than around 30% or so.  Example below.

Using $300 of a $1,000 balance = 30% ratio
Using $500 of a $1,000 balance = 50% ratio

While even after my limit was cut in half, I still didn’t go over the 30% threshold, I was still a little peeved that this is what they are pulling on loyal customers.  I have never missed a payment, and I have had this account open for around 6 years.  Thanks anyways.

Even more recently, I received my first credit declined message.  I had applied for a gas card good at one of the major gas station chains in the US.  I know I advocate not opening credit cards, but this one offered a 5% rebate on all purchases at this chain.  I figured, I’m here constantly, lets save a few bucks.  There was no fees, so I was good to go.

I was expecting the card in the mail.  When I received the envelope, I could tell there was no card in there.  I almost started to panic at the thought of a declining letter because I know my credit is good and if I was declined, maybe I could have been a victim of identity theft.  Then I opened the envelope.

DECLINED!

As I read through the letter, I was happy to find they provide you with the reason for decline.  It stated my credit history was excellent.  So why would they decline a good outstanding citizen like myself?

“Expected expenses will likely outweigh the revenues for this account.”

I guess they wised up and realized they won’t make any money with me!  So much for saving 5% on gas.

Anyone else have a similar experience?

Stocks are simply a piece of ownership in a company.  While usually not a very big chunk of ownership, you can own a piece of any publicly traded company for a small price.

Companies generally start out as private companies, mom and pop if you will, but on a larger scale of course.  At this phase, most investors (Average Joe’s) cannot buy into the company via a stock.  When the mom and pop company starts to grow and needs more capital (Cash!) to increase production or open more stores, they offer an IPO.  An IPO is an “Initial Public Offering.”  This is the first time a stock will be available for the company in question.

So why buy a stock?  Stocks, in general, are the fastest way to grow your investment.  In simple terms, if the company you own the stock in is doing well, the price of the stock goes up.  Of course there are many factors that go into the price being driven up or down.  The current state of the economy, expected future growth or shrinkage, industry trends, etc.  Over the stock market’s history, the average return is 11%.  Keep in mind that is over a very long period of time.  The last year or so has shown us that this is not constant and you should be prepared at any time for extreme losses if you are in higher risk stocks/mutual funds.

Ok, ok.  So this is probably the most worn out topic ever.  However, based on recent survey data, only about a third of the workforce that is offered a 401k, are enrolled and contributing to it.  This is a ridiculous statistic considering the average company match is 4%.  Think of it this way, if your boss asked you if you would like a 4% raise, would you take it?  I sure hope so.  If not close this web page, there is no hope for you.  All kidding aside, take a look at the numbers below to see how much FREE money you are missing.

The calculation is easy.  Take your earnings, before tax (Gross) and multiply it by the employer match.

Ex.  Current salary is $36,000 per year with a 5% employer match.

$36,000 * .05 (The employer 5% match) = $1800.  The total contribution is simply the employer match * 2.  The other half is what you need to contribute.  Hence the employer “match.”  So for this example, the total is $3600 per year total contribution.  Remember, this is FREE money.  All you have to do is contribute your portion first.

What investments does my 401k use?

Most 401k plans consist of mutual funds that target different objectives.  Most plans offer a little something for everyone.  Some funds are more conservative while others are much more aggressive.  The mutual funds offered are typically stock funds, bond funds, target funds, index funds, real estate funds, and more.

Stay tuned for more on how you can determine your risk tolerance and other factors on determining what funds you should invest in.

Another piece of recommended reading.  Rich Dad Poor Dad is a book about about the upbringing of a child with two father figures.  One, a well educated man, the other, uneducated.

The book compares the teachings of both men.  The book demonstrates how they both attempted to climb the financial latter and how they succeeded.

Definitely a good read, the book can be purchased for only $9.90 new on Amazon.  Otherwise, used copies start at $.01 + shipping.

The sooner you realize that any credit card debt is too much the better off you will be.  Most folks have to learn this the hard way.  Once you have acknowledged that you need to rid yourself of credit cards, start with these steps to get rid of them for good.

I have 8 credit cards.  Where do I start?

I have found that paying off the lowest balance card first makes the most sense.  You may have heard of something called the “Debt snowball.”  This was mentioned in one of Dave Ramsey’s books.  The idea is simple.  Start with the lowest balance first.  Apply the most you can to that card while making only the minimums on all the others.  This helps in many ways.  First, it helps you realize you ARE making progress.  Once one card is paid off you can see for yourself that you have accomplished something.  The bill stops coming and its one less thing to worry about.

Once the first card is paid off, take the money you were using to pay the first card with in addition to the money you were using for the minimum payment on the next lowest balance card.  Do this until all cards are paid off.  You will be shocked at how fast this can get things rolling.

But wait!  Some of my cards have much higher interest rates on them.  While you raise a excellent concern, people need constant motivation to stick to the plan at hand.  Unless all of your cards have similar balances, stick to paying off the smallest balances first.  If your cards have similar balances, then it would of course make sense to pay off the higher interest rate credit cards first.

And last but not least, once you are done paying off all these balances, cut up the cards and never use them again.  You can no longer use the excuse they are for emergencies.  If you have setup an emergency fund, you won’t need them.  Plain and simple.  Don’t fall back into the debt trap once your out.

The financial crisis hit individuals at all career levels.  The average 401k balance fell 30% to $45,500 from about $65,000.

The good news is, the recent rally has driven account balances back up to near pre-crisis balances.

The 401k hits affected everyone differently.  A 20 something that just started his of her career isn’t going ot be affected as much as someone nearing the retirement age.  Many people nearing retirement age didn’t have much focus on their retirement savings and never realocated to lower rusk securities.  This lack of action likely prevented many people from retiring as it was too late to correct the damage.

It also affected people in the middle age group.  Most of this group was also weighted heavily in stocks within their 401ks.

Unfortunately, many 401k contributors either lowered or stopped contributing all together when the markets started to drop.  While this seems like a good plan, generally 401k participants who continue to contribute at the same levels through down turns, make out better in the long run.  This is because you are able to but at a lower cost.  You get more shares for your money.  Over the last 100+ years, the market has made an average 11% return.  Based on statics, you can bet your accounts will grow again.  When you continue to contribute through a recession, your cost average per share goes down.  Example below.

You buy 100 shares of a stock or mutual fund for $10 each for a total of $1000.

You then buy another 100 shares or the same stock or mutual fund when the market is down.  Say the price is now $5 per share, or $500 total.

Your cost average is is now $7.50 per share.

Assuming the stock or mutual fund price continues to rise to say, $20 per share, you would have actually made more money on your investment by sticking in through the down trend.

Keep in mind that accounts like 401k are long term investment vehicles, usually 30 years or more.  Don’t let emotions drive your long term investment goals.  Stick with the facts.  The market on average, returns 11% per year.

Roth IRAs are great ways to save for retirement.  While your contributions are after tax money, they grow tax free, even when you withdrawal during retirement.

This the 2009 tax year, you can contribute up to $5,000 in your Roth IRA.  The greatest advantage of the Roth IRA is all gains are tax free.  You have complete tax free growth.  The only downside is, again, you contributions are your money after it has been taxed.  The contributions are not tax exempt like your 401k.

Since the Roth uses after tax dollars for contributions, this helps you diversify your portfolio since your 401k will be taxed upon withdrawal.  Since there is no way to tell what tax rates will be like when you retire, having both a 401k and a Roth IRA gives you the best of both worlds.

One of the other benefits of a Roth IRA is you do not need to distribute your account once you reach 70 1/2 years old.  The account can continue to grow if you don’t have a need to withdrawal the funds.  So in a nut shell, you can keep your money in the tax free growth account as long as you like.

With Roth IRAs, you can also withdrawal funds without penalty, but only your contributions apply.  Only gains are penalized for early withdrawal.  Also, the funds must be held for 5 years to be eligible for withdrawal.  Example:  You contribute $3,000 to your Roth IRA that grows to $3,500.  You can withdrawal up to $3,000 (You contribution) without penalty at any time, after 5 years have past.

Roth IRAs do have some eligibility requirements though.  In order to be eligible, your adjusted gross income must not exceed $105,000 and for married couples $166,000.

For 2009, the maximum IRA contribution is $5,000 unless you are over age 50.  If you are over age 50, you qualify for contributions of up to $6,000.

Buying a used car can save you loads over the price of a new comparable car.  Follow these tips to make sure you don’t get taken for a ride.

1.  Have a plan

Do some research first.  Narrow down your search by looking online at multiple dealers, private party sellers, etc.  Compare the prices and know about what the vehicle is selling for both at dealers and via private party.

2.  Know What You Want

Have all the features you need planned out ahead of time.  If you have a few kids, a third row seat may be needed, know how many miles you put on the car, etc.

3.  Do All Research and Shopping Online From Home, Not at the Dealership

There are way to many places online to research and find exactly what you need.  Don’t waste time by going into the dealership until you have narrowed down your search.  Look at the local dealers and find out which ones have cars you are looking for.

4.  Go to All of the Dealerships and Look before Making Any Offer

Check out all the vehicles on your list.  Get a asking price for all of them.  Since you know what you need, the salesman shouldn’t be able to ask you all the probing questions.  How many kids do you have, how much do you drive, etc should all be avoided.  Never let the salesman know if you are out of a car at the moment.  You want to stay clear of anything that makes you look like you can’t walk away.

5.  Don’t be Afraid to Walk Away

Even if you are in love with the car and know its the one for you, don’t be afraid to walk away.  Use your research to your advantage.  Let the salesman know that a comparable vehicle can be had elsewhere for less money.  If they don’t budge, walk away.  There are tons of cars on the market, you’re bound to find a similar one again.  Stay calm and don’t let the salesman get you.  Walk away.

6.  Leave Emotion Behind

Whenever you are shopping for a big ticket item, always leave emotion behind.  If you are sitting in front of your dream car, don’t let them know you fell in love.  If they know you want or need the car badly, they know they can probably get you for more money.  Keep a neutral face and attitude.  Let them know its the right car, but it needs to be the right price.

7.  Don’t Be Afraid to Be Rude

Salesman usually are, at least when it comes to getting the price down.  Being rude can show them you mean business and you are not going to tolerate the typical nonsense.  You are not there to make friends, you are there to get the best possible price on a very expensive purchase.  Again, don’t let emotion get in the way.  You only care about you, not how much the salesman makes in commission.  They will always say we can’t go any lower.  Its a lie.  Used cars have much more margin than new so there is much more leg room to negotiate.

Follow these steps and you will hopefully be on your way to a new set of wheels.

Well, it turns out no matter what income bracket you’re in, you probably still broke with negative net worth.

This book was a real eye opener for me.  It describes the perception and the reality of millionaires and how they got their millionaire status.  The truth is, the average millionaire is not driving a $100,000 sports car, or even a new car for that matter.  The folks driving the $100,0000 sports cars are usually just as worse off financially as the person making $8/hour if not worse.  They make more they spend more.  The doctors and lawyers may be book smart, but according to the author, they are decades behind on financial literacy.

Check it out, this is a good, inexpensive read!  Enjoy!

Link to purchase book – Used copies starting at only $.50

Certificates of deposit are sold by banks.  They are more widely known as CDs.  Typically, CDs are low risk but generally low returns.  CDs are great for keeping cash in a safe place where you won’t need it for months or years.  CDs carry a commitment.  You cannot withdraw the funs for a predetermined amount of time.  The duration varies quite a bit, anywhere from short term one month CDs up to 5 years is common.  Usually the longer the time frame required, the higher the interest is.  Unfortunately, if early withdraw is required, a penalty will likely be assessed.  All gains from CD accounts (unless in a IRA) are taxable.

CDs are very safe investments, about as safe as they get, in fact.  CDs are FDIC insured providing your bank is FDIC insured.  The predetermined rate the bank gives you is guaranteed.  If rates slide while you are in the CD, you are locked in at the original rate.  On the contrary, the same is true if rates rise.

Some common CD types are:

Traditional CD:  A predetermined interest rate is paid over the predetermined term, or length of time.  When the term is up, you can remove all funds plus interest or renew the CD at most current rate.

Bump Up CD:  Basically, these are the same as traditional CDs.  The only difference is you are allowed to contribute additional funds usually once, in addition to the opening amount.

Liquid CD:  This type of CD account allows you to withdraw funds before the maturity date.  Since you have more freedom, it comes with a cost, a lower interest rate.  The rate will still be higher than a typical money market account though.

In addition, most of the above accounts are available at your local branch or online.  I have found that online accounts usually have much better rates than local banks.

CDs are great investments.  For people nearing retirement, they are ideal due to their security.  CDs are guaranteed and will never lose money.  CDs can also be used for your emergency funds as well.  Simply pick a shorter term.  If needed, you can withdraw funds early, but the penalty will be assessed.  The penalty is usually a few months interest.  However, since this is your emergency fund and it should only be used for true emergencies, hopefully the interest has paid you far more than you will lose for early withdraw.